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The world of Abito Spezzato; Mastering the art of a broken suit

"Abito Spezzato" is an Italian phrase that translates to "broken suit" in English. It refers to the practice of mixing and matching different pieces of a suit, such as a jacket and pants, that are not part of a matching set. This trend has become increasingly popular in men's fashion, offering a more personalized and individualized style becoming a symbol of breaking away from traditional fashion rules and embracing creativity and self-expression.

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The perfect guide to pulling off 'Abito Spezzato' Sucessfully. We especially love this style as it allows one to combine colours and patterns in a way that's more free-spirited than the traditional suit.

How do you match a broken suit?

The key is to choose two separate pieces of garments (jacket & pants) from the same season — you wouldn't match an airy summer linen jacketwith a pair of heavy winter-weight moleskin trousers, and vice versa. 

If your main piece is a summer-friendly jacket in a wool / silk / linen blend, it'd be wise to pick a pair of 200-240 grams worsted wool trousers, smart-casual linen trousers, or even cotton chinos to match.

Are broken suits formal?

Most men seem to think that all suits or jackets are "formal". Contrary to popular belief, there are in fact subtle details that differentiate a formal suit jacket from a smart-casual sports. These subtle details make all the difference when trying to pull off a broken suit.

A suit jacket —  tends to be more structured, with padded shoulders, is fully lined, and typically has welt pockets. Suit Jackets are designed to be worn with matching trousers only, so pulling them apart as separates might look a little off.

On the other hand, sports jacket has an unstructured construction, can be unlined, and typically sewn with patch pockets. A Sports Jacket is designed as a stand-alone piece (without matching trousers). You can jazz up your existing outfit, even if you are wearing t-shirt and jeans.

Should I be choosing similar colours?

Colour is key when putting together a broken suit — here are the 2 different permutations and rules to follow when coordinating your suit:

Solid + Solid

If you're combining a solid jacket with solid trousers, always make sure that one colour stands out more to create a contrast in your look (e.g. blue + grey, tan + walnut, navy + beige).

Pattern + Solid

If you have a few different colours on your jacket; for instance a blue base with yellow boucle windowpane checks, you can easily pair this jacket with trousers matching the accent colour (e.g. khaki trousers or cotton chinos).

What should the overall look be?

The emphasis is on dressing down, so the rest of your outfit should go along with this idea — opt for loafers, monk straps, or sneakers instead of oxford or derby shoes.

A denim, OCBD (oxford cloth button down) shirt, or even a polo tee works perfectly in this instance.

If you're using a pocket square, go for a casual fold to show that this is a jacket and not a business suit.

Lastly, remember to pop open the last 1-2 sleeve buttons of your jacket to add that element of nonchalance to your "effortlessly put-together" look.

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Holland & Sherry Crystal Springs

Holland & Sherry Crystal Springs is a collection of windowpane and mock glen plaid designs in a range of attractive colours, including fashionable, contemporary tones as well as the familiar classics. Woven from either plain weave or twill constructions, in compositions of Super 130’s wool worsted merino or wool silk linen blends. Each fabric card is nicely paired with complimentary colours so that you do not have to crack your brains trying to find the perfect trousers to match the jacket.

Head down to our store today to browse the full selection!

The epitome of luxury, travelling is a unique experience that has become a growing interest to all. Regardless of the industry you're in, having a professional suit is crucial — it portrays an image of class and quality, while catering to the travel requirements of the modern business traveller. Comfort and convenince is plus point when it comes to suiting. Worry less, travel more.

 

Book an appointment with us today to browse our full range of fabrics and tailor the perfect travel suit for your next trip!